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id="1xx5uidq" class="clear"></div> </div> <div id="1xx5uidq" class="clear"></div> </div> <div id="1xx5uidq" class="blockindex h450"> <div id="1xx5uidq" class="new9"> <div id="1xx5uidq" class="new91"> <h1>我們?yōu)槭裁匆嫫斩瑁?/h1> 發(fā)布時間：2023-10-01 </div> <div id="1xx5uidq" class="new92"> <div class="1xx5uidq" id="contentt"></div> 從歷史角度看，曾經的普洱茶未必是需要長期存放的，過去通過茶馬古道運往藏區(qū)和邊疆地區(qū)的普洱茶都是現飲為目的的，主要是追求其“解牛羊毒”的功效。它是游民民族人民維生素的主要來源，是他們的日常必需品。而作為貢品的普洱茶都是選用苦澀較低，茶香濃郁的名產區(qū)的嫩芽為原料的，其目的也是便于現飲。<br>近代在港澳和東南亞地區(qū)，因為避忌普洱新茶的“寒性”和苦澀，才出現通過長期存放行為，以此改善口感，使其寒性轉為暖性，苦澀降低，甜度增加，更迎合這個區(qū)域群體的消費習性。在普洱茶長期存放過程中會出現一種轉化而來的釅香，所謂的“越陳越香”，這類香氣很適合當代人對茶品的審美喜好，于是乎普洱茶存放行為便由港澳地區(qū)逐漸蔓延到大陸，且有一發(fā)不可收拾的趨勢。<br>新形勢下的存茶現狀<br>觀察新形勢下的普洱茶存放行為，我們發(fā)現其具備如下幾個特點：<br>1、普洱存茶區(qū)域變大，由過往的僅限狹小區(qū)域存茶蔓延到全國各地都參與存茶。<br>2、普洱存茶主體增多，由過往在港澳地區(qū)只是專業(yè)茶商存放發(fā)展到大陸內地全民參與存茶，不僅專業(yè)茶商，還有普洱投資者和個人收藏家都積極踴躍參與普洱茶存放。<br>3、存茶品種增多，由過往僅由幾個特定產區(qū)原料供應和少數廠家特定配方生產的極少數普洱茶品種，發(fā)展到泛瀾滄江兩岸眾多產茶區(qū)域的原料供給，和如雨后春筍般出現的廠家生產的，五花八門多種不同配方制作的普洱茶。<br>由上可見，普洱茶產業(yè)發(fā)展到今天已經演變成了全民參與普洱收藏，各種制作的普洱茶產品充斥于其中，那么，在這樣的市場現狀下，所以的普洱茶投資和存放行為都能帶來美好的期盼結果嗎？<br>讓我們分析一下普洱茶長期存放的訴求是什么？其實就是通過存放行為讓普洱茶轉化得到更佳的品飲效果和更高的市場價值。那么什么是“更佳的品飲效果”，也就是普洱茶存放后能比之前的口腔表現帶來什么樣的提升。以某廠家傳統(tǒng)的配方7542為例子。通過長期存放近30年的7542產品，也就是坊間追捧的“88青餅”，和新出廠的7542產品的比較，我們發(fā)現長期存放后的“88青餅”對比同樣配方的新茶主要有以下幾個口感的飛躍——<br>首先是釅香迷人，經過充分陳化后的“88青餅”具有迷人的果香，而新的7542制品口感生澀感重不具備這類香氣；<br>其二，新的7542產品具有很重的草青味，這給品飲帶來極大的不舒適感，但通過充分轉化后的“88青”產品，已經完全消除草青味；<br>第三，新的7542產品苦澀味較重，這也是影響當下品飲的主要障礙，通過轉化后的“88青餅”，苦澀度已經不明顯，代之的是柔順甜香；<br>第四，最后陳化后的“88青”湯色較深，茶性由寒轉暖，對身體尤其是胃部的沖擊性越來越不明顯，而新制的7542產品喝多了，會導致胃部的不適，身體承受的壓力很大。<br>影響普洱茶品飲口感的因素有哪些？<br>由此可見，普洱存放只要追求口感的提升和飛躍以及茶性的轉變，最終目的是為了帶來更加的品飲愉悅性和價值的攀升。那么我們對普洱茶品鑒的口感都是由什么具體特征構成的？這些特征什么能通過存放改善，什么會至始至終不變化？我把影響品飲的口感因素劃分為以下四類：<br>1、香氣，是影響市場大量品飲的最主要因素，它能通過長期存放轉化而來，也能因為轉化而消失，通過轉化而來的是釅香，如果香，棗香，藥香等香型，這是轉化而來的香型，而新茶階段的鮮爽香或者草青味和花香等則會通過存放而越來越不明顯直至完全消失。<br>2、水路，如茶湯的細膩和粗糙、厚薄等，但這類是由茶原料本身決定的，它基本不會隨轉化而變化。<br>3、口腔表現，主要是指生津回甘、苦澀柔順等因素，其中一些能通過轉化而變佳，如苦澀能通過轉化變得柔順和甜，但有些卻基本與生俱來永遠會不變，如生津回甘等因素，原料有就有，它不會因轉化產生任何變化。<br>4、身體反應，主要是茶氣，過往很多喝號級老茶的茶客感覺茶氣很足，導致坊間曾一度認為，茶氣是通過轉化而來，但我們發(fā)現很多新制普洱茶都有明顯的茶氣表現，甚至很多紅茶、白茶都有很強的茶氣，由此我判斷，茶氣主要是有茶本身的原料帶來的，它首先主要是由土地構成和環(huán)境生態(tài)度所決定的，至于能否通過存放而增加，目前尚待研究，仍然有很多不確定性。<br>由此，我們發(fā)現普洱茶通過存放，只是會帶來影響口感諸多因素中的香氣和口腔表現中的一部分變化，還有就是茶性的由寒轉暖，其他的因素都是與生俱來不會因存放而變化的。<br>那是否所有普洱茶都能通過存放帶來香氣和口感的明顯提升？<br>答案是未必。<br> 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