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fl"><h1></h1></div> <div id="1xx5uidq" class="toptel"></div> <div id="1xx5uidq" class="clear"></div> </div> <div id="1xx5uidq" class="Nav w100"> <div id="1xx5uidq" class="Navlist w1000"> <ul> <li id="Top1"></li> </ul> <div id="1xx5uidq" class="clear"></div> </div> <div id="1xx5uidq" class="clear"></div> </div> <div id="1xx5uidq" class="clear"></div> </div> <div id="1xx5uidq" class="blockindex h450"> <div id="1xx5uidq" class="new9"> <div id="1xx5uidq" class="new91"> <h1>普洱茶在臺灣“跑龍?zhí)住钡哪切┤兆?/h1> 發(fā)布時間：2023-09-17 </div> <div id="1xx5uidq" class="new92"> <div class="1xx5uidq" id="contentt"></div> 事情要從80年代說起，或者更早些，也許是30年代。那時候臺灣從福建地區(qū)學得了烏龍茶的制作技術和茶種，在臺灣山地試種成功，很快臺灣烏龍茶便以質量優(yōu)良而著稱，不僅成為臺灣人自用、送禮的日常飲品，甚至還外銷國際賺取外匯。早期臺灣的茶樹都是種在離家較近的山陵地（方便管理），因為海拔較低所以苦澀度較高，因此制作方式大多以中高度發(fā)酵為主（俗稱紅水烏龍茶），但是隨著市場的競爭性，人們發(fā)現(xiàn)高山茶的苦澀度較低，香氣也更好，于是茶山從凍頂鹿谷一帶逐漸移往阿里山甚至梨山等高海拔地區(qū)，而發(fā)酵度也隨著種植海拔越來越高而越來越低——茶山高山化，茶質綠茶化，這似乎成了一種定律。<br>大約在1980年代中期，一件影響臺灣茶走向的大事件發(fā)生了，那就是開始有了比賽茶，那是由官方舉辦的，由茶改場的專業(yè)評審主導比賽名次，因為具有權威性，當然也大幅度地主導了臺灣烏龍茶的制作風格，首先在外觀上要求漂亮，于是球形烏龍茶成為主流，其次要求清香，于是茶湯更往綠茶化的邊緣邁進，如此一來，以前可以經(jīng)年陳放的紅水烏龍不見了，取而代之的是立即現(xiàn)飲的綠水烏龍，慢慢地有人發(fā)現(xiàn)，臺灣高山烏龍茶是更香也更甜了，缺點是不耐泡，而且喝多了也好傷胃呀……<br>臺灣人喝茶半世紀（1930～1980年）慢慢地也喝出了一點講究，臺灣有句俗語這樣說的：“文章、風水、茶，能懂的沒幾個”，可見茶水之深呀。如前所述，臺灣茶人除了講究茶葉本身之外，也講究茶壺的適茶性，一般粗制濫造的臺灣大陶壺或者大瓷壺自然是看不上眼了，于是，大約在1980年左右，全臺灣的茶人一致把眼光聚焦在來自大陸的宜興紫砂壺，并且奇跡般地在全臺范圍形成了長達20年的紫砂壺收藏熱潮。<br> 而我認為，這一波20年臺灣紫砂熱正是把云南普洱茶引入臺灣的濫觴（作者的個人所見）。為什么我說臺灣紫砂壺收藏引發(fā)了臺灣普洱茶熱潮的濫觴？故事又要回到那個年代說起，80年代大陸還沒有改革開放，除了可以通過香港地區(qū)間接交流之外，臺灣與大陸基本上是無法接觸的，更別談到彼此貿易了，但是，賠錢的生意沒人做，殺頭的生意有人做，因為臺灣火熱的紫砂壺需求，于是生意人見錢眼開，開始了走私紫砂壺的生意。那時候直接到大陸岸邊走私是不實際的，于是大量的船員和黑船便借著香港這條通道做起紫砂壺買賣，而大陸在改革開放的口號下也從善如流，陸續(xù)在香港設立了四大公司（錦峰、英泰、雙魚與海洋），那時候正好是臺灣的經(jīng)濟狂飆期，所謂的“臺灣錢淹腳目”，一把紫砂壺只要過了臺灣海峽幾乎有數(shù)十倍的利潤，暴利保證了往返海峽兩岸的走私船絡繹不絕。<br>寫到這里你可能會問，臺灣走私紫砂壺跟普洱茶興起有何關系？一開始關系確實不大，但是只要有一點點關系，星星之火就足以燎原。走私是一種本小利大風險也大的生意，要么一本萬利，要么貨物充公人坐牢，于是走私者本能地會把貨艙盡可能塞滿，于是他們會在走私紫砂壺之際順便夾帶一些港貨回來，例如高價的鐵罐子港茶（鐵觀音、巖茶）也在臺灣紅火了好陣子，另外當然也會夾帶一些低價的次級茶，例如便宜到不行的普洱茶餅和茶磚，用來干嘛？說來都不好意思，這些茶餅、茶磚是用來“塞艙縫”的，避免船行大海浪把高價的茶壺給磕碎了。<br> 于是乎，臺灣最早期的普洱茶就隨著紫砂壺熱潮，首次以跑龍?zhí)椎慕巧料嗔恕?br> 普洱茶在臺灣的首次亮相雖然不是主角，卻合時機，因為它有幾個優(yōu)點正好可以彌補臺灣烏龍茶的不足：首先普洱茶便宜，相對于臺灣茶的高價，低價的普洱茶首先攻占了中低階層的茶市場，讓漸漸買不起高山烏龍茶的販夫走卒也能滿足基本茶癮。<br>其次，普洱茶好用。雖然普洱茶便宜，但是很多人還是不能接受“臭浦茶”（臺灣人最初稱呼普洱茶為“臭浦茶”）的味道，這時候茶商會說：你不喝沒關系，因為普洱茶不是喝的，是拿來養(yǎng)壺的，你看這黑黑稠稠的茶湯，最適合養(yǎng)壺了，一磚熟茶養(yǎng)壺出來的效果抵得上十斤臺灣茶，省錢呀，而且喝不完的茶湯還可以澆花，茶渣可以當肥料……不買茶也沒關系，你買我一把壺，我送你十磚茶……不騙你，當年“臭浦茶”在臺灣就是以這種半買半相送甚至連哄帶拐的模式被推廣開來的。<br> 最后也是最重要的一點，“臭浦茶”的滋味也許不討好，但是優(yōu)點是不傷胃，這讓許多常年喝烏龍茶導致胃弱胃痛的茶人有了極佳的替代性茶品，這些人不見得是中低階層的茶人，也有許多高階茶人，甚至有專業(yè)茶人和精英茶人混在其中，也正是他們，在品飲的過程中慢慢地發(fā)現(xiàn)普洱茶美妙的門道，于是反饋上手夾帶一些高端老茶如印級茶和號級茶來到臺灣，并且在互相品飲交流之間逐漸積累了品飲普洱茶的集體心得。<br> <div class="1xx5uidq" id="contentb"></div> </div> <div id="1xx5uidq" class="clearfix"></div> </div> <div>上一個：<a href="n52743.htm">茶多酚降低血管緊張素ⅱ誘導的內皮高滲透性</a><br /> 下一個：<a href="n52741.htm">景邁山普洱茶的特點有哪些？</a> <br /><br /> <a href="n52443.htm">你知道為什么高壓電線為什么都是三根線？</a><br /> <a href="n52444.htm">巖石抗凍性試驗是什么？</a><br /> <a href="n52445.htm">win8錄音機在哪(win8錄音文件保存在哪)</a><br /> <a href="n52446.htm">水處理的氣浮法要點有哪些？</a><br /> <a 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