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class="blockindex h450"> <div id="1xx5uidq" class="new9"> <div id="1xx5uidq" class="new91"> <h1>他們?yōu)槭裁炊荚谧菲斩璧臒熛悖?/h1> 發(fā)布時(shí)間：2023-09-25 </div> <div id="1xx5uidq" class="new92"> <div class="1xx5uidq" id="contentt"></div> 白雀的迷人是沉浸在茶湯里的，令人愉悅，喝過你才懂。<br>近年來，和茶友們喝中期茶，言必談“煙香”。<br>不知從什么時(shí)候起，“煙香”成了市場追捧的熱點(diǎn)。<br>只要帶有“煙香”的普洱茶，尤其是中期茶，一定有市場，而且價(jià)格會更高。<br>而且，更神奇的是，當(dāng)筆者與每一個(gè)茶友、茶商討論關(guān)于“煙香”的話題時(shí)，都會得到不同的答案，但是一點(diǎn)也不妨礙“煙香”茶成為市場上的“潮流前線”。<br>很多時(shí)候“流行”是沒有道理的，就像現(xiàn)代人把減肥作為終生事業(yè)，在唐朝的時(shí)候卻是以胖為美，你能怎么說呢？<br>所以筆者在這里也就不和你們講道理了，我們來講講茶友們是怎么評價(jià)“煙香”的，看看他們?yōu)槭裁炊荚谧?ldquo;煙香”。<br>“煙香”有點(diǎn)像榴蓮，愛者愛，恨者恨。<br>而“愛上”可以有一千個(gè)理由，“不愛”一個(gè)理由就夠了。<br>01.80后新晉茶商葉錦輝說煙香是一種讓人很容易記住的味道<br>葉錦輝正式加入芳村茶商大軍只有不到一年時(shí)間，是從愛好者轉(zhuǎn)為茶商的。<br>但是憑借研究生時(shí)代練就的鉆研精神，他對普洱茶的研究有著自己的一套認(rèn)識。<br>葉錦輝認(rèn)為，煙香是一種讓人很容易記住的味道，對很多不太懂茶的人來說，別人說煙味茶好，他記住了。<br>比如“白菜”“孔雀”都是帶煙味的茶，也算是這兩批茶引領(lǐng)了煙香的潮流吧，當(dāng)他再次遇到煙味茶，就很容易判斷這個(gè)是“好茶”。<br>小編說：這個(gè)理由竟然如此簡單粗暴，但是聽起來好像很有道理的樣子。<br>白雀的迷人煙香，讓人一飲難忘，記?。哼@就是好茶的樣子。<br>02.芳村大益三姐呂雪說煙香是勐海茶轉(zhuǎn)化良好的一種表現(xiàn)<br>呂三姐是大益最早一批的a級服務(wù)商之一，對大益茶的產(chǎn)品體系和陳化走向都如數(shù)家珍。<br>根據(jù)呂雪多年來對大益茶的研究，他發(fā)現(xiàn)很多茶在新茶階段是沒有煙香的，尤其是勐海地區(qū)的茶，但是經(jīng)過三五年的干倉陳化，就會轉(zhuǎn)出一定的煙香。<br>這種香未必與原料吸入煙味有直接關(guān)系，也許只是某種與煙香類似的獨(dú)特的芳香物質(zhì)，只是我們還未知罷了。而且這種香氣是溶于水的。<br>小編說：這個(gè)理由在某些茶商看來有些不可思議，但是畢竟是老茶人的經(jīng)驗(yàn)之談。<br>03.老茶薈張旭說：煙香代表了普洱茶的傳統(tǒng)工藝<br>張旭在芳村經(jīng)營著一個(gè)老茶交易平臺，多年與老茶打交道，也接觸過很多帶煙香的茶。<br>還是相信煙味茶的煙味來源是制茶過程中吸入的雜味，比如手工殺青過程中吸入的柴火煙，或者干燥過程中吸入的農(nóng)家火塘里的煙味。<br>因?yàn)楫?dāng)年茶農(nóng)大多把原料放在木樓上，樓下燒火、做飯，茶就容易吸入煙味。<br>但是正是這些煙味，代表了這些普洱茶是用傳統(tǒng)的手工工藝制成的。<br>清潔、標(biāo)準(zhǔn)的現(xiàn)代茶廠，做出的茶雖然沒有雜味，但是卻失去了手工制茶指掌間的溫度。<br>小編說：這個(gè)理由很溫暖，邏輯上也說得通。<br>04.下關(guān)沱茶陳輝說：煙香是太陽味的轉(zhuǎn)化<br>“無煙不下關(guān)”，下關(guān)沱茶可是“煙味茶”鼻祖?。」P者幾年前曾就此問題特別采訪過當(dāng)時(shí)下關(guān)沱茶廠生產(chǎn)技術(shù)部經(jīng)理陳輝。<br>他當(dāng)時(shí)的解釋是：“煙香”就是“太陽味”的轉(zhuǎn)化，煙香的產(chǎn)生需要毛茶經(jīng)太陽強(qiáng)紫外線的照射，然后再在相對低溫、干燥的環(huán)境中存放兩三年以上，而新茶是出不了煙香的。<br>下關(guān)茶廠的原料一半以上來自臨滄地區(qū)，海拔高、紫外線強(qiáng)，曬青茶的太陽味就更重，這是茶葉本身就帶有的“太陽味”。<br>另外，下關(guān)沱茶的原料倉庫，每年保證5000噸的庫存，這么大量的原料，在倉庫中已經(jīng)形成了一個(gè)微生物菌群系統(tǒng)，新茶存在里面，過上兩三年，自然形成了獨(dú)特的下關(guān)煙香，而且當(dāng)茶葉經(jīng)過存放，青味退去，其他香氣下降，煙香味就更突出。<br>煙香更側(cè)重于味覺上的感官體驗(yàn)，而嗅覺上的感覺相對較弱，這其實(shí)也是煙香和煙熏味的差別。<br>小編說：專業(yè)人士的經(jīng)驗(yàn)分析，值得參考借鑒。<br>白雀的迷人煙香，代表了普洱茶的傳統(tǒng)工藝，也是勐海茶轉(zhuǎn)化良好的表現(xiàn)。<br>關(guān)于“煙香”的說法千千萬萬，普洱茶的煙香，依然還是謎一樣的存在。<br>我們暫且不去肯定或者否定那種說法。哲學(xué)家羅素說：“參差多態(tài)乃是幸福的本源。”<br>如果喝煙味茶能夠讓你覺得幸福，那就喝好了！<br>而在普洱的世界里，有各種過去、現(xiàn)在或者未來流行的香氣、滋味、口感讓他們多元存在著，這個(gè)世界會更加豐富多彩。<br> 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